However, fiberglass pans have a tendency to crack from being exposed to heat over time. With the innards removed, the old housing was much easier to disconnect from the supply and return vents and the drain line. The outdoor unit was quickly removed by cutting the high-pressure and suction lines, disconnecting the power, and cutting the thermostat wires. Pro-Tip: Because of increased competition, many manufacturers are including 10 year warranties on standard parts for registered products.
The previous indoor unit was suspended with chains, and the new unit will sit on this pan which features small mounts to reduce noise from vibrations and an integrated drain connection. The newer system will use Ra coolant rather than R , and Chuck used R to flush the line sets. Back outside, the guys began connecting the outdoor unit, and they started with the thermostat wiring. In the picture below you can see the two terminals side-by-side and the ground connection to the right.
The filter dryer removes contaminants and moisture. Back inside, Chuck team was measuring the new unit for size and working to ensure the supply and return ductwork would connect properly. Pro-Tip: Newer units obtain a higher efficiency rating by increasing the number of coils. This means newer units are usually bigger and may not fit in the same location as the old unit.
They ended up needing to trim some of the ductwork, and the picture below some a piece of the pre-insulated ductwork found throughout the home. Just like removing the old unit, they removed some components to make it easier to move into place.
The picture below shows the new unit butting against the return vent, and you can barely see the piece of sheet metal fitted along the top to narrow the opening to size.
The indoor coils are designed to be installed upright or sideways, and you can see the two different pans for each configuration. The air filter fits into that narrow slot on the right just after the air return.
Pro-Tip: Manufacturers pressurize the coils with Nitrogen to verify there are no leaks, and when you remove the plugs, you can hear the Nitrogen exiting the system. Next, they brazed the high-pressure and suction lines, and installed grommets after the pipes cooled. They usually let the pump run for at least 15 minutes and target about psi on the suction line. After running the pump, they let the gauges sit to ensure no pinhole leaks are present. After that, they charge the line set with freon according to the manufacturers guidelines.
Pro-Talk : RA freon is sold under the trademarked name Puron. With all the final connections made, Chucks team turns on the new system and checks to make sure the air temperature difference is within range. Lastly, they use Rubatex to insulate the suction line and aluminum tape to cover any joints not pictured. The emergency shutoff?
What about the pressure in the lines, is that something a motivated homeowner should be able to tackle? The bulk of what a homeowner can do is covered in that recent post about diagnosing a problematic HVAC unit. Hopefully, this Pro-Follow sheds some light on the process, and helps everyone stay informed.
Yep its so hard to get parts for AC units our relay got fried in a power serge. So the AC unit was due for repair. I asked my father to fix it for me he tested the unit and told me the relay was broken. My father was hard pressed to convince one of these businesses to sell him the part! They just want to charge u up the.. In the past he even had to convince one company to sell him the gauges to check the Freon levels in his old Keep Rite AC that ended up being replaced due to a leak that could never be fixed.
You need to have a license to buy the parts here and well we found someone who was willing to sell them back to us. Its not for the average person but my father has experience in many fields. The appliance part supply house down the street sells to pros and joes alike. About the only compressor you can do in an hour is a perfect fit replacement.
Any re-work necessary to allow for different line locations can add significantly to the time factor. Now if you're saying that a condenser replacement takes minutes after you've set the new one in place, put the refrigerant lines into the service valves and are ready to braze, then connect the whip, then sure, minutes is that particular phase of the job.
But I count picking up the condenser, unloading from the truck, wheeling it to the site all while the recovery is on-going , disconnecting the old whip, disconnecting the recovery machine, removing the refrigerant lines from the old, changing the pad, making sure it's level and stable, setting the new unit and THEN, we're finally at the point where you started timing, if I've interpreted your statement properly. If not and I've offended you, I apologize. My personal record is 2. Be sure to make time to find out why the compressor died.
Psychrometrics: the very foundation of HVAC. A comfort troubleshooter's best friend. Evacuation for me anyways is usually the least time consuming after proper leak test thanks to appion! I'm usually 2. That's start to finish including micron vacuum or less. Some are faster and some take a little longer so bottom line keep busy and it is what it is. Condensing unit only, Line set and evap coil, hrs. Evap only hrs, however I changed a 7.
Got lucky with a line set and condensing unit combo with my apprentice, system flat before starting 3. Refrigeration semi hermetic hrs. Complete change out 2 guys hrs. Not the quickest in town, but do ok. There are always variables that can increase time on job Originally Posted by Rcb I get restless when I have to wait on something so I get distracted with piddling instead of sitting there staring at the pump.
Please read this Valves, Regulators, Filters, Etc. All times are GMT You will need to consider things such as the type of building you want to want to install the heat pump in, the climatic conditions of the place it is installed as well as the conditions of usage. If you are installing an electric heat pump in a residential building, the best place will be in the boiler room or in the basement.
When you install it that way, the noise as well as the condensation will not cause problems. If you are installing a gas pump in residential buildings, you can install it in the open without adding extra protection to it. This will avoid the use of internal space as well as the risk of transmitting noise to the entire house.
When installing whether an electric or gas heat pump in a tertiary as well as industrial buildings, the output requirements usually make it necessary to have the heat pump installed on the outside of the building. These heat pumps need to have air as a cold source as well as a supplementary boiler for them to work efficiently. The supplementary boiler may not be required in gas pumps though.
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